Cairo... unknown, exotic and fascinating destination ... full of contradictions and history, full of culture and life... Destination sacrificed to the cult of the temples and often not given all attention it would deserve... This could have happened for me too ... But I wanted to invest my attention in it... that was the only thing I had available, not having the possibility to count on a high budget for my trip... Starting from some friends’ experience, I wanted to venture out in search of local contacts that could guarantee to me a tourist guide and accompany me in the visit of the city... I had to stay a few days but I wanted them to be intense... Some stories of people who had been there had scared me a little... Thanks God, personal experience gave me a confirmation: indeed, never as in this case, unfamiliarity with the language is combined with the unwillingness to be able to grasp the true nature of things. I have just returned from a memorable trip... and not because it was an odyssey... but because it represented to me a dive into civilization... the true one... made of history, culture and also diversity.
I had the tickets, I had booked the hotel. I just had to find someone who could be my local guide. A little bit of research, some e-mails, opinion exchanges, not much bargaining... and I finally found everything .... with skepticism and a little of fear, but I seemed to have found a good proposal at a good price. A guide who speaks Italian, with an air conditioned van and a driver available for most of the day... I suggested a tour program. It was confirmed and even enriched by other interesting places .... what did I want more?
I had just to leave. Once we had overcome the hardships connected with the flight from Italy (Alitalia. .. that is real third world) we arrived at a deserted airport, late at night with no one there waiting for us (the only downside of the trip... the proposal did not include transfers to and from the airport). We found a solution... but quite a cheap one, starting with a lot of prejudice and lack of confidence, at first doubting the fact that we had already started the journey with a false step. But we were wrong about that. Everything was alright, we arrived at the hotel, quiet, beautiful rooms. But it was late at night. In the morning we would begin our trek and... the guide was on time, standing in the hall at 10:00 with our names on a sign. We introduced ourselves and met the smiling and jovial Ayman welcoming us... and harmony was already there! He even speaks our language better than many of our fellows, and he knows of it not only inflections and typical expressions but also customs and circumstances... Yes, a great impression. He led us to the bus and here we met the friendly and nice Mohamed... He smiles and we understand that he is ready to do whatever we want... Just a pity that he doesn’t speak much and he does not speak our language, unlike Ayman, a volcano of sympathy. Therefore Mohamed stays out of our speeches, focusing on the chaotic traffic of the city, which requires twenty eyes and surely not just two.
First stop is the Citadel. There we understand that our guide is not only nice but also well prepared... we observe each other and understand that it will be a great trip for both parties... Perhaps the experience of the guides when working with groups is one of high depersonalization... but with him now is like being with a friend... Beautiful places. The second stop is the Egyptian Museum... magnificent repertoire. But what a mess! If you do not have a guide you do not know what you are looking at. It is a kind of storehouse. Ali Baba's cave full of treasures stored in bulk... He chooses for us what to watch, following an historic route... When we go out, the cue at the entrance is endless, and we deeply appreciate the fact that our guide, unlike the others, follows us and takes care of us... The ones who the night before looked at us at the airport as we were some kind of homeless, now were envious and... it was right like this. Then we are off to the island of Roda and the Nilometer... but first, we are hungry! It's late... what shall we do? We explain that we just need something small to take away, and he leads us to a place where they make a subspecies of the local fast food... a dainty for just two cents... We are very tired, but satisfied.
Planned for the day after, a hard trip is waiting for us and we deserve some rest. In the hotel we fall asleep straight away. But in the same evening we can enjoy the beauty of the surroundings of the hotel, the beautiful Zamalek. It’s a dream, guys, we are in Cairo! But where the heck were those fools who spoke so badly about it?
The next day, early wake up call. Abundant breakfast and departure for the archaeological Saqquara. And a visit inside a mastaba... complete with a visit to the decorated tomb. The ones of the pyramids are not like this. We can visit this one freely and full of wonder. Ayman knows it all and he’s love by everyone .... could we be luckier? The tour continues with an unscheduled visit. We go first to the pyramids of Dashur, the red and the diamond ones, before making a stop in Memphis (the Sphinx and the magnificent giant) and then we head to Giza... We were prepared to see the city just behind the spectacle of the Pyramids, the view is not disappointing ... millennia of history are set in front of them... and you can feel them all with their magnetism and their undeniable beauty.
You have to pay for everything, but with Ayman we manage to bypass the long cue of tourists waiting to get their ticket. The day is misty and cloudy, it rains a little, this helps us to stand the heat. We visit the Solar Boat and the Sphinx… what places! What emotions! For lunch we go to a nearby restaurant. It’s a place that works in agreement with some tour operators. And we get the special treatment of the tourist guides! We pay really little for the quantity of what we eat, a really delicious buffet meal. But it will still not be the best meal of our stay. Sated and satisfied, we drive back to our hotel. Just the time to rest a little and we are already around in Gezira, along the Nile... Breathtaking views of an enchanted city... light years away from that hovel that many people still insist on painting and that represents only a part, not even the most important part, of a city with many faces.
The day after it’s the turn of the Coptic Cairo – completely different from the Egyptian museum: less things but better organized. The Hanging Church, St. George, St. Sergius, and then the ghetto, the synagogue, the oldest mosques in the city. The past piles up and memories interweave... it is a pervading and all-encompassing experience that hardly makes it all so clear. We anticipate a visit to the bazaar of Khan el-Kalili, not before he have toured in what all tour-leaders consider as the only mosque non open to tourists. Inside there you breathe a mystical atmosphere. It’s the goal of a pilgrimage, a mausoleum that makes us realize that holiness has no boundaries.
We go on with the sightseeing as planned, even though the program now is just an indication... The famous bar of the mirrors is the most disappointing thing. More a name than a site... But also the junk-market is disappointing: it has nothing of the colors and sounds we were expecting, but just an annoying constant call from those salesmen who do not sell anything that probably does not come from China... We rush to finish our tour and we see our countrymen who seem to enjoy chasing meaningless items... Lunch is always a new surprise... a place with a buffet, but this time even of a higher quality... and with prices which in Italy does not even allow us to get a single breakfast... Even in self-service places, chefs prove their well-deserved reputation. The visit ends with our good guides (our “heroes”) leaving us in front of the Fish Garden, a sort of fairy garden with aquariums and artificial caves, built in 1800. So bad, it’s about to close. But the smart Egyptians don’t miss the change to do a favor (they are anyway always kind) and also to earn something extra (if being kind makes you earn something, even better): the guardian sends everybody out, but for a small tip he doesn’t only let us in, but he even opens for us a small depandance where fishes are kept, waiting for the renovation of the pools. It’s an enchanting place! Kept in very good conditions, you wouldn’t say you are in Cairo: everything is so green! And Egyptians are such good gardeners - is there something they cannot do? Memorable visit, wonderful photos. The next day, the driver punctually picks us up from the hotel and takes us early in the morning to our trusted guide... Mosque of Ibn Tulun, House-Museum of Gary Anderson, Mosque-Madrasa (school) of Sultan Hassan, Mosque El Rifai then fast drive by car to the City of the Dead. This is the plan. The sky is gray, and all of a sudden we are right in the middle of a beautiful sand storm... Now we understand that patina that envelops everything and makes it all seem like a post-nuclear landscape... It is so fine and invasive that at the end of the day I shall find some traces of it in my pants ... oh yes... but I swear, I did not put off my pants in front of everybody to check!
The visit to the Madrasa is exciting. Everything is mega and maxi... magnificent. It seems to be in one of our churches... now I understand the meaning and the difference of those places. They are places where you can pray, not merely places of worship... and inside there you breathe peace and respect... for everything and everyone. The visit to the museum-house of the English officer is very special. A respectable bunch of antiques and Petrella stocked with taste and full of that subtle ambiguity that characterizes the name of the owner. Our guided tour certainly helps us to understand, while a group of local students seem more eager to leave than to see things that are like a mirage to us, and not daily routine. Unfortunately, you can’t stay long in the City of the Dead, the area was closed for security reasons, but it was enough to understand what it was like. We’ll get refreshed by a meal in a typical restaurant, where we eat a beautiful soup and an exquisite cake. Of course, again for few pounds and with top satisfaction. This place is well known only by locals... thanks Ayman for letting us discover it! Then we decide to visit the zoo. From the zoo you can understand many things of a city... Certainly the day is not ideal to visit a park: everything has a yellowish color faded from the desert storm... but we have an hour available. The visit was worth it. The park is very nice and kept quite well... not so is the fauna, virtually non-existent, or at least invisible... But it's closure time, better to leave on time before somebody else “gives it a try” asking for money while allowing us to stay, like last time at the Fish Garden.
On the fifth day in the program there is the Mosque of al-Mu'ayyad and the historical monumental El Moez Street, seat of ancient Islamic schools, public fountains, and… flies. That was one of the most intense days: the sand storm was just a memory: at night a cool wind wiped away everything and restored in the city brightness and colors. It couldn’t be a better day than this to enjoy all that beauty. On that street you can find something different at every step. Always something new adds up to the prospective, it’s enchanting. We hope that, when added to the mass tourist tours, it will not lose its fascinlation, most of all granted by the locals and Hookah dealers, present in a huge number. Just a note: our guide gives us a drink, he recommends a mango juice... well, forget anything here that bears that name. The tour is enriched by an unforgettable pearl: the house of Al-Suhaymi, that nice to supplant the grotesque house of Aderson Gayer. And then finally, between a mosque and a minaret... after admiring a breathtaking view from one of the towers of Bab Zweila, beautiful city door, we enter a market that makes us experience the real thrill of a Cairo markets... those smells! What colors, what sounds, what spell! We are in seventh heaven... and we move among the people as if we were part of them ... there are no tourists here, but that doesn’t make out of us an object of curiosity or attention ... ah ... how silly we are, we Western people... The day ends with an excellent lunch at a restaurant well known by the tourist guides as Felfela... They recommend us some special dishes, thanks to our guide. But here the place alone deserves a visit: it seems to be in a Disney movie... A visit to the Cairo Tower makes us digest it all... and makes us realize how immense and vast it all is, and how small and insignificant we are. It’s such a shame that tomorrow all this has to end.
On the sixth day we left the hotel... we said goodbye, with the greetings of the friendly Sales Manager personally... and we get to the next stop we agreed on: the Pharaonic Village. The snobbish tourist guides refer about it as an attraction for children. Maybe a little less snobbism and some more initiative could make them change their mind. We agree on a package tour that includes lunch and mini-cruise on the Nile. The great thing is that we start so early that everything takes place just for us! Can you imagine how it’s like living inside Disnayland? Well... if you put it in the frame of ancient Egypt, there we are! It's exciting, just like I read in the guides and websites. A boat takes you among the islands where the ancient history of this land and of these people was rebuilt. Then the visit continues inside reconstructed houses and museums, thematic museums... and a perfect reconstruction of the Tomb of Tutankhamen. Something that would make all our Disneylands turn pale.
Time is running out and the cruise on the Nile will be over in half an hour. Just a pity. I would have liked to buy some beautiful papyrus, here they are of high quality and very cheap. Well, next time. We are far from the airport and we have to go. From the car we spot many more things that we couldn’t see before. So we start with the comparisons with our Rom. But we can’t leave without a visit to the Baron's house... damn... here it was, just go back... no, you cannot miss it... despite the fact that it is closed for restoration and surrounded by an iron railing ... It’s a mixture of the Sagrada Familia Cathedral and a Buddhist temple. We hope it will soon be open. The copy of the Colossus of Ramses tells us that the airport is not far. And that our experience is about to run out... but not its memory and the joy associated with it. Certain things remain in the heart for a long time... thanks Ayman, thanks Mohamed, thanks Jasmine... thanks Cairo, thanks Egypt... and see you soon.
Roberto